I spent my Friday and half of my Saturday in Edinburgh, Scotland, which is the polar opposite from Glasgow and one of the most jaw-droppingly beautiful places I've ever seen. While I poured praise upon Glasgow the other day after the general consensus that it was a horrible city from most people I know, I have to say that I do not disagree with everyone's extreme love of Edinburgh. It is an incredible place. And this post is about 48 hours later than I was hoping to write it because the hotel I was staying at, the Roxburghe actually did not have an internet connection. And it wasn't because it was an awful hotel - it was actually very nice - but because, well, I was in the United Kingdom. And that's how it is here. It was remarkably similar to my apartment too - tiny living space + beautiful, beautiful bathroom.
I arrived in Edinburgh at around 4:30 PM and immediately went wandering around the city. My hotel was right between Princes Street (the main high street) and George Street (a street with a lot of restaurants and bars). The city is divided into the New Town and Old Town with the castle on a gigantic volcanic mound right in the center of the city. Old Town is, I believe, about 500 years old and New Town is about 200-300 years old. New Town is basically a grid layout with predominantly Georgian architecture. It's picturesque and has avenues with islands down the middle dotted with statues and monuments and open squares of trees and grass. Old Town, however, is the more fascinating half of Edinburgh - it was built upon craggy volcanic rock formations with little valleys carved into them that streets run down. The buildings and roads were built up on each other. This means the layout of Old Town is a fascinating and confusing maze of bridges, overpasses, windy roads, alleyways, and tunneled passages.
When you walk out onto Princes Street, the city opens before you like a pop-up book. There is a large park that runs through the center of the city in a basin beneath the castle and is filled with dramatic statues and surrounded by incredible architecture. There is also Scott Monument, a Gothic tower of opulent beauty, a black and gold blade plunging upward out of the heart of the city. There are several bridges you can use to cross over to Old Town, and the view from the bridges are also incredible - in each direction you look there are palacial buildings and castle turrets jutting out of hill sides. In Old Town, I randomly wandered around in the cold weather to try to get my bearings in the city and ended up exploring most of the city. At every turn, a new part of the city would unfold, almost always revealing something breathtaking.
After walking around, I asked my concierge for a recommendation on restaurants, and the best they could do was suggest "Brown's", a place near the hotel that had a completely uninteresting menu. It was like a nice Bennigan's (Oh, I also ran into some people from the business trip I had been on standing in front of Brown's, which was just sort of strange and awkward). So I did some of my own searching and ended up going to a restaurant in Old Town called Dubh Prais, a tiny Scottish Restaurant tucked away along the Royal Mile because I wanted to have as Scottish a dinner as I could. I ordered the haggis (haggis #3!), a dram of Cadenhead glenturret scotch, a Scottish lager, and venison medallions. It was incredibly delicious. I then went for a walk through Old Town again to get a sense for the nightlife and headed back to my hotel.
After changing, I ultimately went to a club near my hotel that my Scottish co-worker recommended, and had a decent time. One of the bartenders, whose girlfriend is American, took care of me, giving me some free drinks. I also met some insane Irish brothers and their friends and hung out with them for the night. The DJ, this guy named Jez Hill whose mixes were questionably described as "heady", was pretty great, spinning basically the greatest hits of dance music according to my own iPod. The club eventually got shut down due to a fire alarm going off. As everyone was waiting outside, I had to keep one of the Irish boys from getting slapped by some American girls after he introducing himself by telling one of them she had "beautiful breasts", and the conversation actually quickly went downhill from there. I went home shortly after that.
The next day, I woke up early and immediately went to take a bus tour of the city, which is of course my favorite tourist activity. After riding around freezing to death in the open top (exactly like my last bus tour!), I literally sprinted over to the castle to tour around. After almost freezing to death again in absurdly long ticket line, I did an abbreviated jaunt through the castle over 45 minutes and left to go meet the car taking me to the airport (and just a note: Helen, who was my driver for all the cars I had in Scotland, is the best driver I've ever had). On the way out, in what can only be described as an incredibly low probability event, I ran into my friend Beau, a guy I RA'd with at Penn. He actually lives near me in London, so we will be seeing each other soon I'm sure.
I was in business class on my quick flight back to London and gorged myself on chips, peanuts, and beers in the lounge before take-off. Upon landing, I went home, worked out, and then ran off to have some beers and pizza with Tom and Callum before the booze cruise down the Thames, another messy, messy Saturday night. At least my prediction for "vomiting over the side of the boat" didn't come true. A minor victory to be sure.